Book:The Laboratories of Our Lives: Labs, Labs Everywhere!/Labs by industry: Part 2/Cosmetic

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4.2 Cosmetic

Cosmetic labs provide research and development, as well as quality control (QC) functions, to the world of cosmetics. From makeups and moisturizers to hair dyes and lipsticks, the cosmetic laboratory is responsible for making safe and effective products of many types. Cosmetic chemists tend to mostly work in private laboratories or as part of a private-public research partnership, though some work in academic labs.^[1] Cosmetic labs are found largely in the private sector, though they exist in the government and academic sectors and provide many different services, including (but not limited to):

formulation and development of products^[1]
safety testing of products^[1]
process engineering improvement^[1]
chemical and material research^[1]
substantiation of compatibility and efficacy claims^[2]
allergy testing
contaminate testing

But how do cosmetic laboratories intersect the average person's life on a daily basis?

In private industry, cosmetic scientists are tasked with creating a safe product that is free from contaminates and allergens that may negatively affect a user. At the higher government level, some labs are responsible for substantiating manufacturer claims, testing cosmetics, and even manufacturing cosmetic components^[2]; the FDA, for example, certifies some color additives as safe for consumers in its own lab.^[3] Without these labs, the soaps, shampoos, moisturizers, and makeup on the market wouldn't likely exist, or if they did, they would be of unknown quality, posing a threat to human health. When we use such a product, we are reminded that a laboratory was at some point involved in its creation.

4.2.1 Client types

Private - Private cosmetic labs are either found as part of a major company initiative (think L’Oréal Group and its laboratories^[4]) or as a third-party contract lab that provides development, manufacturing, and consulting services to clients.

Examples include:

Government - Governments around the world differ in how they regulate and test cosmetics. Though not common, some governments will dedicate space for laboratory testing, certification of constituents, and testing of efficacy and compatibility claims.^[2]^[3]

Examples include:

Academic - Academic programs in cosmetic science aren't abundant, but they can be found. (The Society of Cosmetic Chemists lists a few U.S.-based programs https://www.scconline.org/Resources here].) The laboratories associated with this course of study are presumably similar in design to a chemistry teaching laboratory in a typical university, with a few additions, including research facilities.

Examples include:

4.2.2 Functions

What are the most common functions? analytical, QA/QC, research/design, and teaching

What materials, technologies, and/or aspects are being calibrated, researched, and quality controlled? colorants, dyes, emulsions, fragrances, lacquers, polymers, preservatives, silicones, surfactants, thickeners

What sciences are being applied in these labs? biochemistry, biology, chemical engineering, chemistry, cosmetic science, macromolecular science, pharmaceutical science, process engineering

What are some examples of test types and equipment?

Common test types include:

Absorption, Allergy, Antimicrobial, Bioburden, Biocompatibility, Comparison, Compliance/Conformance, Composition, Contamination, Detection, Efficacy, Expiration dating, Flammability, Fluorescence, Formulation, Fragrance, Impurity, Ingredient, Irritation, Labeling, Oxidation reduction potential, Oxidation stability, Pathogen, Performance, pH, Photostability, Preservative challenge, Proficiency, Purity, Pyrogenicity, Quality control, Safety, Sensitization, Stability, Water activity

Industry-related lab equipment may include:

autoclave, balance, chromatographic, digital imaging devices, ESR spectroscopy equipment, fluorescent laser scan microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy equipment, microscope, multiphotone tomography equipment, pH meter, Raman spectroscopy equipment, test tube and rack, thermometer, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) instrumentation

What else, if anything, is unique about the labs in the cosmetic industry?

In the U.S., whereas the Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services (CMS) regulates clinical laboratory testing^[5], the FDA regulates cosmetic laboratories.^[6] Regulation of cosmetic laboratories in other countries varies; in Singapore, for example, the Health Sciences Authority helps enforce cosmetic testing per its Health Products Act.^[7]

4.2.3 Informatics in the cosmetics industry

The most obvious place where informatics is being used in the cosmetics industry is in their various labs, where research and development (R&D) and QC testing take place. Laboratory information management systems (LIMS) help collect, analyze, visualize, and disseminate test results; manage formulations; and track workflows. However, other operations within the cosmetic industry are busy collecting data as well, and with the growing focus on big data and what it entails, industry members are looking at other ways they can beneficially integrate and harness that data. Some companies have developed specific algorithms to mine consumer testing results and further scrutinize existing formulations to maximize desired sensory results and produce more effective and cost-efficient cosmetics.^[8] Outside the lab, some cosmetic companies are using informatics in other ways, including using e-commerce data to identify growth opportunities^[9] and integrating manufacturing data streams to enable improved efficiency and productivity.^[10]